Custom Suit Fabrics | Raw Materials | New York City | Manhattan

Custom Suit Fabric Glossary

Knowing and understanding the different fabrics that are available plays a critical role in determining the type and style of custom suit. The experts at B'SPO-KEN are specialists in determining what fabrics are best for your specific personal style. We believe that all our clients should understand the basics when it comes to selecting fabric. It is our job to educate you to insure that your custom made suit is exactly what you need.

Merino Wool

Sourced from Merino sheep, Merino wool boasts a superior range of natural qualities that extend far beyond its seductive softness next to the skin.

Merino wool is a natural fibre renowned for being very fine and very soft. It is a unique fibre, loved by fashion and apparel designers for its quality and versatility. Nothing else feels like it, looks like it, or wears like it. Merino sheep produce a clean, white fleece ideal for dying to clear, fresh colours, while the long, fine fibres can be spun to the finest count, woven into the finest fabric and tailored into the finest suits. The wool has characteristic crimp and elasticity, creating unparalleled style, drape, comfort and performance for the wearer. The handle and lustre is of exceptional softness and kindness to the touch, unlike any other fibre.


Sourced from Cashmere Goat. The Cashmere goat is to be found principally on the cold and dry highlands of Central Asia.

Cashmere was first discovered by the nobility of Victorian England and subsequently became one of the most prestigious fibres of the noble fibre family. The low bulk, high loft fibres combine to make the warmest, most comfortable garments money can buy. In softness, warmth and fineness of fibre cashmere is comparable to Vicuña. Cashmere is appropriate for all climates as the high moisture absorbency rate allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties in varying conditions of relative humidity. Cashmere cloths are luxurious with a soft and seductive handle, beautiful drape and timeless appeal.


Mohair is sourced from the Angora Goat. Mohair is the hair from the Angora goat. It is distinctive from wool, in that it has a different fibre structure, which hangs in ringlets and is exceedingly fine, soft and silky.

The distinctive properties of mohair have made it a highly desired fiber through the centuries for fine clothing. Its soft, luxurious hand and rich luster combine with great durability for enduring beauty—as in sweaters that rebound season after season, cleaning after cleaning in original color-lit fluffiness. As with wool, mohair can be spun on the woollen or worsted system. Worsted mohair suiting fabrics have a clean, crisp handle with a bright, lively surface as the natural lustre of the fibre is used to full effect. They are light in weight, and yet the strength of the fibre guarantees a hard wearing, long lasting cloth.


This rare fabric comes from a vicuna, an orange fur Ilama like animal. It resembles the Ilama and it is the smallest and most graceful of the six species of the camel family.

Vicuna is often referred to as the 'fabric of the Gods'. The incredibly soft and luxurious handle of the vicuña fleece has made this shy and diminutive creature a most sought-after treasure since the time of the Incas. These revered mammals are to be found in the extreme heights of the Altiplano regions of the Andes, most commonly in Peru. A vicuña’s fur is thick but soft and the fibre length is rarely more than 25mm making it more suitable for woollen spun fabrics. It is the finest and rarest natural fibre with a fineness of 10 to 13 micron.


Silk is sourced from the silkworm. Silk is a natural protein fibre spun by the silkworm as it makes its cocoon and is one of the strongest natural fibres.

Silk has always held a special position as a quality fibre, and was originally reserved for the Emperors of China, but quickly became popular throughout Chinese culture, Asia and beyond by means of the Silk Road. Silk fibres have a triangular cross section with rounded corners, allowing light to reflect at many different angles giving a natural shine and lustre. Appropriate for all climates, the naturally good moisture absorbency of silk allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties making silk cloth comfortable to wear even in warm climates.


Cotton is a soft, vegetable fibre that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant.

The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile.Cotton was first spun by machinery in England in 1730. The industrial revolution in England and the invention of the cotton gin in the U.S. paved the way for the important place cotton holds in the world today.


The linen yarn is cultivated from the raw flax plant. Linen is labor-intensive to manufacture, but when it is made into garments, it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.

Linen fabrics have a high natural lustre, with the ability to absorb and lose water rapidly, gaining up to 20% moisture content without feeling damp. The natural look of linen cloth is an elegant choice for casual wear, warm weather, weekends and holidays. Linen is also highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat. These qualities help keep the body cool when worn in hot climates. It has a smooth, lustrous surface with a natural resistance to dirt and staining. Linen is also the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with two to three times the strength of cotton.

We leave no plant, sheep, goat or stone unturned

When it comes to designing, styling and the manufacturing of custom made suits and shirts, B'SPO-KEN considers every aspect that goes into making a fine quality garment. We start at knowing and understanding the qualities of the raw materials. We leave no plant, sheep, goat or stone unturned.

B'SPO-KEN is Located in New York, and servicing New York City (Manhattan), Brooklyn, Queens, Bronx, Long Island and Staten Island for over 30 years.